April 15, 2021

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Is Food In You

Tenoshima: A master chef’s tasting menu in the convenience of your own house

3 min read

The spring equinox may be just close to the corner, but Tokyo currently hovers on a very distinct cusp: When will the state of emergency occur to an finish?

Tempting choose-out: Tenoshima sushi sets acquire pride of spot on this restaurant’s to-go menu. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON

Just one issue that is sure is we’re not out of the coronavirus woods however, which suggests the ongoing night eating curfew looks set to continue on for at least a different couple of months.

For prospects, this represents at most an inconvenience. If we want to dine out, we have to start out early otherwise we buy in, prepare dinner for ourselves or get by snacking on benefit keep fare. For several dining places, though, it feels like a death spiral.

Spare a imagined for the professional places to eat that provide leisurely, multicourse omakase (tasting menu) meals, drawing consumers who like to settle in for the night. Because they’re presently required to close by 8 p.m., dinners that may well generally choose two several hours or much more have to have start out occasions that are entirely impractical, particularly for weekdays.

Hardest strike have been the scaled-down, significantly less proven spots, as chef Ryohei Hayashi and his wife, Sari, can attest. Due to the fact opening in 2018, their 18-seat 2nd-ground Japanese cafe, Tenoshima, has won a potent name — and a Michelin star — on the strength of Hayashi’s expertise, married with a refreshing absence of classic formality.

Having honed his expertise for 17 several years underneath Yoshihiro Murata, the doyen of Kyoto chefs — very first at Kikunoi, Murata’s renowned ryotei (high-close restaurant) in the previous cash, and afterwards at its Tokyo branch — Hayashi has paid out all required dues. He has absent on to create his personal solution, drawing inspiration from his travels abroad as effectively as the seafood of his ancestral house, the island of Teshima in the Seto Inland Sea.

To assist tide them selves about this time period of uncertainty, the Hayashis have launched a takeout menu (in Japanese only) showcasing many of the vintage dishes that aspect on their most important menu.

Room for seconds: Simmered yellowtail and daikon in a broth is a simple and delicious Tenoshima side dish. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON
Space for seconds: Simmered yellowtail and daikon in a broth is a straightforward and scrumptious Tenoshima facet dish. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON

Pride of place goes to the fantastic Tenoshima sushi sets (¥5,900 whole/¥2,950 50 percent-sizing), featuring a variety of unique fish: either sawara (Spanish mackerel) or saba (mackerel) anago (conger) plus two kinds of inari (stuffed deep-fried tofu pouches), with pickled ginger and dipping sauces on the side. For a smaller dietary supplement, you can get them packed in a woven bamboo box, every single portion of sushi wrapped in eco-friendly sasa bamboo leaves. Freshly made, lightly seasoned, fantastically introduced, this is extremely recommended.

Every single sushi is also offered separately (from ¥2,500 inari from ¥350), as are servings of rice cooked in ceramic hotpots (¥800 basic/¥3,500 with crab or other toppings). There is also a range of simple, appetizing aspect dishes, such as dashimaki tamago (Japanese omelet ¥1,500) kaki-furai (breaded deep-fried oysters ¥2,200) and buri-daikon (simmered yellowtail and daikon in broth ¥2,000).

Requested up to a working day forward, for decide on-up from the cafe in the afternoon, they are all superb. A terrific way to sample higher-conclude washoku (Japanese cuisine) at household, whilst serving to Hayashi endure until improved periods return.

1-55 Creating 2F, Minami-Aoyama 1-3-21, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0062 03-6316-2150: www.tenoshima.com open 5-10 p.m. (at the moment till 8 p.m.) shut Sunshine. tasting menu from ¥13,000 takeout obtainable from ¥350 nearest station Aoyama-itchome nonsmoking big cards acknowledged English menu English spoken.

In line with COVID-19 pointers, the governing administration is strongly requesting that citizens and site visitors exercising caution if they select to check out bars, restaurants, songs venues and other community spaces.

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